If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
am i the only person with a set of screw extractor bits?
I never even knew it was a thing. I’m assuming most people don’t have them.
I got a set, tried to use them twice and they failed both times. In the first try the bolt metal was too hard for the extrator to bite in in any reasonable time drilling and the second time the screw was too soft and the extractor stripped the hole the extractor makes attempting to extract.
Another option for smaller screws is just to drill out the head, it will let go.
Had to do this on a buddies Harley… Tried the ‘cut a slot’ method for a flathead too…broke the screw head in half trying to take it out. Drilled it out, head popped off, and was able to take the shaft out by hand. Those screws are made of play-doh…not metal.
First oil change on a new to him bike but some numbnuts but the crank case cover bolts in like a gorilla…torque spec is 7 ft-lbs(9.5 Nm). That’s like a quarter turn past finger tight. It just needs to compress the seal so oil doesn’t spill out.
I hate Phillips screws. For this very reason.
Get a JIS screwdriver. Life changing.
Looking at this makes me physically ill
worse when it happens to small screws in electronics. shit like this makes you want to just smash your laptop
FRAMEWORK. FRAMEWORK LAPTOPS. WHY MUST THEY MAKE THEM SO WEEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKK
That looks like a really shitty screw to begin with.
The main problem wthe the X shaped model is that there are so many different versions with different angles and points oe lack thereof that it can be hard to tell which is which at a glance, increasing the chance of stripping if you don’t check for proper fit.
Not to mention you might be working on something where the prior person mixed and matched different screws head types on the same project!
“Failed to load media”
Bummer. Mobile using the Voyager app, if anyone else has the same issue.
Use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver and bits. If you own a Japanese automobile, motorcycle, etc., you better use them.
I know what you mean. I have a few older Hondas and there is jis everywhere. I’m talking jis on the dash, jis on the cluster, jis on the sunvisor, seat track, sunroof… Jis on the gotdamnt headliner. The things are practically covered in jis.
It took all the way till the last sentence before I got the joke.
I was hoping it would be dry laugh creeper.
Lol mission accomplished
Visit the Vessel (Made in Japan) website. I know how you feel, I have a Nissan Leaf.
Phillips is identified, in muricuh, by just the cross pattern hole.
JIS is a cross patterned hole, with a separate round indentation in one of the cross corners.
They are very close to each other, but not exact, and can round eachother out.
I have yet to strip any Phillips head screws with my Vessel bits.
Congratulations.
Your ribbon is in the mail.
I can snap the heads of cheaply made screws or ones made from softer material like “brass” with a screwdriver let alone an impact driver.
If I am doing something with a lot of screws, say decking, then I will spend more on my screws simply because I want better quality if I am going to be fitting a few hundred in a day. I also want to know that if I come back to it in a few years that the screw will unscrew quickly when I come to it. Sure it can be a significant cost increase but the time and frustration saved makes it back.
Quality screwdrivers like Vessel Megadora or Wera or Swisstools or similar tend to cam out less than the pack of ten you got from the dollar store. Same with the hex bits for your impact or drill driver.
Last test I heard had Roberson above Torx for reducing cam out, but if you camming Torx that easily I would just switch to an actual hex headed screw if it needs that much torque to tighten.
I think your drill is the machine that does that, though.
I bought a precision screwdriver set to replace the failing RAM on my thin lenovo laptop, which has super tiny screw on the ram slot, withing the first few turns of the screwdriver, I stripped that screw. Fucking thing would not budge, tried the rubber band trick, tried to even find somewhere I can borrow a dremel to cut a line on the head for a flat head, finally had to take it to the repair center at a Micro center and they somehow got it out. Never buying a thin laptop again, and will always check online for repair ability
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
I’ve had to use this quite a few times on laptop repairs cuz the oem used way too much lock-tite. The trick is to use the point at about a 45 angle toward the outside of the head, impacting in the direction it would turn to loosen. Just be careful it doesn’t slip off and cause more damage. The hardened tip can also be used to cut out a wider cut to maybe fit a small flat head in too.
Torx ftw
